10 Razor Cutting Tips for a Layered Shag

Chances are the majority of the inspiration photos your clients have been bringing in lately are some version of a shag - layered, fringe-heavy and effortless-looking. To master this cut, you’ll need a solid grasp on razor cutting and weight removal.

Need some pointers? Improve your razor cutting skills and learn how to master THE cut of 2021 with these 10 tips from Russell Mayes, Director of Content at Jatai Academy.
 

1. How to Hold the Jatai Feather Styling Razor  

2. How Much Tension Should You Use?

Russell says this depends on the hair type. On straight hair (shown here), Russell uses no tension, or only the tension a comb gives him. “Curly hair requires more tension than straight hair,” he shares. 

 

3. The Key to Feathery Curtain Bangs

Have a client with extra thick, full hair? You’ll need to remove some weight in the fringe to create those ultra feathery layers. To do this, pull 1-inch sections straight across (perpendicular to forehead) and very gently remove weight using just the tip of your razor.

 

4. Don’t Fear Weight Removal

When you reach the sides, pull sections straight across the face and down, holding them directly in front of the nose. Don’t be afraid to remove LOTS of weight from the sides - if you don’t, your cut will end up looking fluffy, not piecey and airy.

 

5. When to Channel Cut

To achieve separation when removing bulk in the sides, go in vertically with your razor and channel-remove weight so that when the hair falls, it forces separation into the section.

 

6. How (and When) to Create Variation in your Shag

If you want a super modern shag where everything is coming forward, cut the hair from the top of the ear to the corner of the hairline in the nape as short as the previous section, no matter how long the hair is.

If you don’t want the weight to shift behind the shoulders, disconnect it from the previous section and blend it with just the bangs.


 

7. How To Avoid Frizz When Razor Cutting

• Use a sharp blade (he recommends changing your blade every other cut or when the razor starts resisting/pushing the hair)
• When texturizing, always start in the midlengths and work your way down. Starting too close to the scalp can cause the hair to expand and frizz.

8. The Blade Angle Matters
As you’re removing weight, keep in mind that the more angled you hold the razor, the more hair you will remove.

 

9. The Best Hair Type for Razor Cuts?
“A compact cuticle that has a lot of movement and fluidity,” says Russell. “The coarser the hair, the easier it is to fray the cuticle. You want a soft, compacted cuticle so that when the blade hits it, it doesn’t explode.” If the hair doesn’t handle a razor well, point cut with scissors or thinning shears to get a similar look.

 

10. Bonus Tip!
Russell decided to add some pops of color to the front and sides of his shag, and to get as close to the scalp as possible and keep the hair color from drying out, he added Fuji Perfect End Paper around the hairline.

Missed the Live? Want more tips? Check out the full video below!