The leaves are changing colors, the weather is getting cooler and your clients are in the mood for a makeover. Ready to help them transition seamlessly from one season to the next? Kadus Professional Design Team Artist Toni Garcia-Jackson has you covered.
Below, she’s sharing four tips for taking your clients from the warm shades of summer, to the cool hues of fall and winter.
1. Sandwich Cool with Warm
Toni’s number one rule when transitioning from warmer to cooler tones? Create contrast! Toni likes to alternate warm and cool formulas, sectioning on a diagonal to create softness and movement.
For example, on a starting Level 9, warm blonde, Toni alternated a cool formula: Kadus Professional Permanent Hair Color 10VR (Lightest Blonde Violet Red), a warm formula: 8GP (Light Gold Pearl) and another cool formula: 8CEV (Light Blonde Copper Violet), to create a multidimensional, sun-kissed end result.
Bonus tip! Toni uses different foil colors for each formula, which helps her stay on track during the process.
When applying your base formula, it’s important to apply the color at varying distances from the scalp. Toni alternates applying the color anywhere from ½-inch to 4 inches from the scalp. This makes the end result more visually interesting and natural-looking.
2. Ace the Base
3. Create “PODs”
PODS, or pockets of dimension, are areas in the hair Toni likes to leave as is. To create a POD, section out a ¼-inch section, and clip away, then continue coloring as normal.
4. Diffuse the Situation
Create more visually interesting color by diffusing, or backcombing, the hair before coloring each slice.
The key to diffusing, advises Toni? You should only be backcombing about 25% of the hair. “Be mindful of over-diffusing,” says Toni. “If you diffuse too much, there’s nothing left to color!”
Keep in mind:
- If your client’s hair is light, the more you diffuse, the more overall lightness you’ll end up with.
- If your client’s hair is dark, the more you diffuse, the more overall darkness you’ll end up with.
Want even more tips? Watch the full video below!