According to Modern Salon’s latest hair color research, 46% of people agree that grey coverage is the reason for coloring their hair. However, your clients with grey hair have very different needs. Are you familiar with the grey hair coloring instruction and the products needed to provide the very best service for them? Here are some quick hair coloring tips you can use right now for your clients who want to cover or change up their grey hair!
All Grey Hair Is Not Created Equal
All grey (non-pigmented) hair is not created equal and will not react the same to tinting, bleaching, toning and various chemical services. Coarse textured gray (non-pigmented) hair will always react slower and be more stubborn while finer textured grey (non-pigmented) hair will always react quicker to tinting, bleaching and toning or any chemical service. Keep in mind that on the same head of hair, you may have a mixture of fine, medium and coarse grey (non-pigmented) hair. In some cases, you may have to treat these different parts of the head with separate hair color formulas (permanent or semi-permanent) to protect the integrity of the hair.
ProTip: Hard water and medications will also have an effect on any service so it is important to do a consultation every time.
Percentage Of Grey:
• 75% (large amount of white/grey) - Need a permanent color
• 90% (mostly white) - Need a permanent color or most likely a heavy duty double N series
Always Use a Neutral (N or NN) series
N or NN (more pigment) series contains all three primary colors: red, yellow and blue. This is needed because grey/white hair contains no pigment and will react more to cooler or warmer formulations/colors. We have all seen those older women with blue hair. Some color companies will provide a grey series or double series (NN) that contains more pigment and/or ammonia to open the cuticle and deposit the color. Feel free to apply a toner if your client does want a cooler or warmer look.
Pro Tip: If your client smokes, recommend a blue shampoo which will offset the yellow from the nicotine smoke.
Grey hair tends to be resistant and typically takes longer to grab hold of the hair. Since there is no pigment, there is no need to lift. You just need to open the cuticle enough to deposit the color. If you feel you can get full coverage using a 10 or 15 volume then by all means use a lower volume.
Always Use a 20 Volume Developer
Mind The HairlinesThe front and hairline can either be more resistant or more porous because this is the first area to show grey. Determine the hair texture and if coarse, soften this resistant area prior to coloring by applying a 20 volume developer around the hairline and applying color to this area first. If the hairline is porous, try to either apply to this area last or use a lighter level or developer.
Another option: Use Power Tools by Dennis Bernard's G.O.D. Gray Oxidizing Drops, which contains all three pigments and contains the exact amount of ammonia to gently open the cuticle and deposit the color. Simply add the recommended drops to your formulation.
Pro Tip: Coloring hair is one of the best ways to tame grey fly-aways as coloring breaks down the cuticle making it more pliable. Let your clients know this to add value to your service.
Another great option is grey blending for those who are price sensitive and are looking for a quick fix. This technique softens the contrast between their natural color and grey hair by either added highlights or low lights . For a small amount of grey, add highlights to the areas that are grey; for all over grey, lightly re-introduce his/her old natural color evenly throughout.