The Updo Update: Perfect Color Placement Techniques

Techniques and Formulas: 

COLOR & HAIRCARE:
The color placement pattern is based on triangles. They go around the hairline, with some points open towards the face and other that open toward the crown, working on flat side of the triangle Micro-weave foil following back-to-back by a teased slice. On the underside, micro-weave there as well.

1) Micro-weave with Kadus Professional True Blondes and Kadus Professional Permanent Developer 6% (20 Volume), 1:1.5 mixing ratio. 

2) Once all have been placed, go back and apply equal parts Kadus Professional Demi-Permanent Hair Color 6N and 6G with Kadus Professional Demi-Permanent Developer 4% (13 Volume), 1:2 mixing ratio from roots to ends. 

3) Let process for 20 minutes.

4) Rinse and shampoo with Kadus Professional Color Vibrancy Shampoo.

5) Follow with Kadus Professional Color Vibrancy Post Color Treatment.  Leave on for 5 minutes to help close the cuticle after a color service and rinse. 

6) Tone with Kadus Professional Demi-Permanent Hair Color equal parts of 6BB and 8BA  and Kadus Professional Demi-Permanent Developer 1.9% (6 Volume), 1:2 mixing ratio.  Leave for 5 minutes, or adjust time on depending how much pigment you want to deposit.

7) Rinse and then shampoo and condition with Kadus Professional Color Vibrancy Shampoo and Conditioner. 

8) Apply 3-5 pumps Kadus Professional Velvet Oil and work through the hair from root to ends. This lightweight leave-in conditioner helps prep the hair for using heat tools. 

9) Towel dry to get all excess moisture out and apply Kadus Professional Dramatize It Mousse (softball size). 

QUICK TIP: when prepping hair for special occasion you don’t need to be as conservative as your client will be shampooing the next day


UPDO:
After blow-drying in sections, start in the back with 2 ponytails, 1 in between the nape and  the occipital bone and the other underneath the crown. Secure with clear rubber bands. To add texture, pinch the sides and use a tuck and roll technique. Using Diane 2.5 inch bob pins, place a bobby pin on a section and then move the bobby pin to direct where you want to secure it. Start backcombing the crown above the ponytail to add volume. As you move closer, decrease the amount of backcombing to create a smooth layer. After the top is done then move to the sides. There is no need to backcomb as these will be crossed over working up to the part. 

QUICK TIP: use your mirror for symmetry and balance.

Based on the color technique, the micro-weaving will give guidance on choosing the pieces of hair to pull out in the front. After all is placed, go to the back section and separate the pieces to add volume.

QUICK TIP: use short bursts of Kadus Professional Design It Hairspray to create hold throughout.

JEssica Lopez