These 10 tips from Kathy Kafka Johnson, Midwest Regional Educational Director for Zotos Professional, will help assure that your texture services turn out perfect.
With more & more clients wanting the voluminous textured hair of an easy beach wave without all the effort of daily styling, perms are making their way back to the service menu at many high end salons. Whether you're a licensed beauty pro who hasn't touched a perm since cosmetology school and needs a serious refresher or you're a seasoned texture pro just looking for a few pointers, these 10 tips can help you work smarter- not harder- when performing texture services in your salon.
1. Use a Clarifying Shampoo prior to all texture services to remove any buildup that may interfere with solution being absorbed. Quantum Clarifying Shampoo is recommended.
2. Towel blot the hair before wrapping to prevent dilution of waving lotion- hair should be 20% damp.
3. Wrap with minimal tension when using traditional chemistries* such as Acid/ Alkaline/ Exothermic.
• Allows hair to expand freely
• More tension = less curl
• Be careful of tension at the crown area
• Use stabilizers properly: 2 per rod, locate at ends of rods not coming in contact with the hair
*Use more tension when wrapping Thio-Free or Ammonia-Free
4. When using an Acid Wave, mix activator thoroughly into the solution.
• Reducing agent and glycerin (oily substance) is in activator
• Shake everything (solution, activator & neutralizer) to ensure even distribution of product
• Make sure that chemicals are evenly mixed
5. To ensure saturation, application of solution should be slow and even.
• Always use equal amounts of solution and neutralizer
• For proper flow control, use a pin to open bottle
• Hair should look wet and shiny when fully saturated
• After application remove cotton from hairline, so it doesn’t absorb solution from hair
6. Processing cap should be secure and fit snugly to help keep the moisture in and the air away from the solution. Exposing the perm to open air will slow down processing.
7. Always follow manufacturer's directions. Never take a “Test Curl” on a “No Test Curl” perm. Doing so will interrupt perm processing, as long as proper chemistry was chosen for the porosity of the hair, the timing will be perfect.
8. Rinse thoroughly: 5 minutes for chin length or shorter, add 1 minute for each inch of hair that falls below the client's chin. If not rinsed properly, post-perm odor, lightening, and damage may occur. To determine if hair is thoroughly rinsed:
• Smell the hair, there should be no traces of perm or ammonia
• Check bubbles in the sink, they should be clear
• Feel the hair, if slick or 'oily' feeling, continue to rinse
9. Use cool water to rinse neutralizer tohelp close the hair cuticle and create shine.
10. Blot, Blot, Blot. First with regular towels, then with paper towels. Surround each rod and gently squeeze. We must bring hair back to 20% moisture. Insufficient blotting is the #1 reason for re-does. The remaining water in the hair dilutes the neutralizer we are about to apply, causing a weak curl or a curl that relaxes. Do NOT use a dryer.