18 Professional Perm FAQs, Answered!

featuring Zotos Professional

Perm hack! Here’s an easy way to create the loose, trendy beachy waves your clients are asking for using Zotos Professional Texture EFX and supplies you already have in your salon. Pull out the hair rollers, choose the roller size of your choice and secure each hair roller with a perm rod!

There's no doubt about it - perms are making a comeback. Whether your clients are looking for super coily curls or more relaxed waves, texture is the name of the game. To keep you up to speed on all things perms, we asked the Zotos Professional education team perm experts the pro perm questions they get asked most often. Read on to find out what they said, and happy perming!
 
1. How do I know which perm to use - acid, alkaline, exothermic or cysteamine?
Select a perm/texture wave based on the porosity of the hair, density of hair and desired curl result.
 

Acid waves are recommended for color-treated and/or porous hair types to give soft body curl.
Ideal for style support and beachy waves.

Alkaline waves are recommended for normal, resistant hair types with medium to low porosity (especially coarse and/or hair that is difficult to wrap around a texture tool/rod). Ideal for firm, springy curls even on long hair.

Exothermic waves are recommended for the most resistant hair types with low porosity to NO porosity. Ideal for defined, coily curls even on dense long, resistant, and high percentages of coarse gray (white) hair.

Cysteamine Waves are the most recent perm technology. These waves are recommended for versatile curl results on normal/resistant or color-treated (including perm-able bleached hair). The results are a very natural-looking curl.
 

2. Should I use a porosity equalizer?

Zotos Professional perms are created with conditioning agents, therefore porosity equalizers are not necessary when the perm formula is chosen based on hair type.
 

3. Can I color my client’s hair prior to the texture service, or should I do it after?
If your client has a 1-inch regrowth, it is best to perm first and then wait one week for color service. If your client’s regrowth exceeds 3-4 inches, it is best to retouch hair color new growth then wait one week for perm/texture service.

4. What is the purpose of shampooing the hair prior to giving a perm service?

Shampooing the client’s hair will remove all surface debris that could affect perm solution penetrating into the hair shaft. It’s recommended that you use a clarifying shampoo.
 

5. Why is it important to towel blot excess water from the hair prior to wrapping the hair on permanent wave rods?

Think about a wet sponge absorbing less than a damp one because there is not enough room in the sponge. Apply the same theory to hair. Less water in the hair will result in thorough and even penetration of the waving lotion.
 

6. What size rods should I use for a beachy wave?

Beachy waves are easily achieved using large benders. Depending on the length of the hair, you will get an end curl when the hair can wrap around the tool 2.5 times.
 

7. Why is it important to watch the amount of tension used while wrapping the hair on permanent wave rods?

Wrap the hair according to manufacture directions. Most perms will request that you wrap with minimal tension. Just like a tight belt around your waist can leave you feeling uncomfortable and unable to expand, wrapping with tension leaves no room for the hair to expand, making it harder for the hair to accept the solution. If the directions ask for you to wrap with tension, that means the solution does not expand the hair to the same degree.
 

8. If the permanent wave solution being used has an activator, why is it important that it be mixed thoroughly?

Mix and shake all products well. Opaque and colored bottles and tubes make it impossible to tell if the products are mixed or if the activator tubes are empty. Do not hesitate to shake everything, even neutralizers, as long as the directions allow it.
 

9. Why is it important that the permanent wave solution be applied slowly and what happens if this procedure is rushed?

This gives your solution time to be completely absorbed. Apply once and then reapply, making sure to keep drips to a minimum.
 

10. What is the purpose of a processing cap and why does it need to be sealed tight?

Air can slow down the perming process and the strength of your perm product to the point of not achieving a nice curl pattern.
 

11. When the directions state “DO NOT TAKE A TEST CURL” … why is it so important not to take a test curl and what happens if a test curl is taken?

Today’s perms are made with different moisturizers and conditioners to give the finest results. However, these ingredients tend to add weight to the hair and give you a false reading if a test curl is taken. Also, looking means breaking the air-tight seal of your processing cap and weakening the strength of the perm.
 

12. What happens when the permanent wave solution is not sufficiently rinsed from the hair prior to neutralizing?

Rinse, rinse, and rinse some more. This will remove perm odor, eliminate dryness, and control the possibility of lightening the hair.
 

13. Do I need to use all the neutralizer?

Yes! If the hair accepts two bottles of waving solution, then it will also accept two bottles of neutralizer, but only if it is towel-blotted sufficiently. Many instructions ask you to remove the rods and use the remaining neutralizer.

14. How long should I leave neutralizer on? When can I leave it on longer? 
As per the perm directions, neutralizer should be on the hair for 5 minutes. If left on longer, Zotos cannot verify results. Neutralizer is a chemical, and it is not advisable to leave it on longer then 5 minutes. With longer hair, after 5 minutes, the rods are removed and extra neutralizer can be worked through the hair to assure even distribution and then rinsed.

15. What would occur if towel blotting was not done thoroughly and the hair was neutralized?

Remember, it’s easier to take apart a puzzle than it is to construct one. With hair, it’s easier to disconnect bonds than it is to reunite them. Removing water from the hair between chemicals will ensure that enough neutralizer will penetrate. Finish with a paper towel to make sure there’s no excess water.
 

16. Why is it important to not brush the hair after a texture service?

The hair is fragile, and the reformed bonds need to solidify for 48 hours. It is recommended to use a wide tooth comb to prevent roughing up the cuticle and/or, disturb the curl, and to help prevent frizz.

17. Which perm is best for bleached hair and why?
Texture EFX Color Treated Perm (purple box). This perm chemistry, cysteamine, is designed for this hair type, as long as the hair analysis shows permability. The cysteamine chemistry is a tiny molecule with a catatonic (+) charge that ensures infusion through the cuticle with less cuticle friction, so the cuticle remains uncompromised.

18. Which perm is best for color-treated hair? How long after a perm can you color the hair? 
Depending on the type of color and volume developer used and curl strength desired: Texture EFX for color-treated hair, Quantum Classic and Extra Body, Quantum 5 Classic Volume and Extra Volume, Warm and Gentle Tinted, Acclaim Acid, Extra-Body and Plus Extra-Body and Design Freedom Acid. You can color permed hair after one week - this gives the newly-formed bonds in the hair time to solidify.