7 Tips to Sharpen Your Razor Cuts with Steven Champine

The razor can be a transformative tool in your work behind the chair. To show you the versatility of this classic instrument, Steven Champine - master stylist and lived-in cut expert - stopped by Marlo Beauty Studios to share the details of his razor cut technique. If you’re interested in moving beyond razor basics to confident razor hair cuts, check out our favorite razor tips from Steven - plus a bonus tip at the end that you can apply to any service!  
 

Steven Champine's Razor Cut Tips

1. Who is an Ideal Candidate for a Razor Hair Cut?
Razor cuts are perfect for clients who want their hair to air dry into a salon-worthy style. Clients with very straight hair can also benefit from the movement and texture that a razor cut provides. And because the razor is a perfect tool for removing weight, thick-haired clients are a natural fit for razor cuts. If you’re new to razor cutting, Steven recommends giving a scissor cut and then going back through with the razor to remove weight at the end - see tip #3 for more!   

2. Charging for a Razor Cut
“One great thing about razor hair cuts is they’re perfect for clients who want low-maintenance looks, because the grow-out is so natural,” Steven says. In fact, many of his clients only come in 1-4 times per year. Because you’re using an advanced technique that requires additional expertise and a more deliberate approach - and because you’ll only see these clients a few times annually -  you should increase your price accordingly, with confidence.

3. Removing Weight 
Watch this clip of Steven explaining the right way to remove weight with a razor: “You usually want to pull out the section you’re removing weight from, hold it at the end, and then just see where the hair wants to bend,” he says. Remove weight from the section below the bend - you don’t want to cut above the bend because then you’ll end up with some short pieces that stick out!

4. Keeping Tension
With scissors, you’re normally cutting underneath the comb or cutting underneath your fingers. With razor hair cutting, you want to cut above your fingers because you need to create tension for each and every cut. Cut slowly and carefully as you get used to this new finger position, and be aware that when you’re pulling the hair taut, it’s going to spring up as soon as it’s cut.

5. Cutting Keyholes 
Here’s a fun tip: use your razor to cut space for your client’s ear to peek out if that’s their vibe. Steven suggests taking two inches (give or take) from the top of the ear in a triangle section. Starting at the top of the ear, cut two inches toward the front of the ear and two inches toward the back. Every face shape and hairstyle is different, but the 2-inch triangle is a good starting point for creating keyholes. 

6. Razor Movement
We love this analogy from Steven about making sure your razor is in motion before it touches the hair: “I’ve never used a chainsaw before but I know you’re not supposed to touch it to the tree and then pull it.” Channel your inner lumberjack and establish your movement before your razor touches the hair to prevent unwanted dragging, tugging and imprecise cuts!

Bonus Tip: Find Your Inch! 
If you’ve spent any time behind the chair, you know that everyone’s inch is different. Your client may say that they want a “couple of inches taken off” and really mean half an inch…or six! Want to find that precision without pulling out a tape measure? Measure your thumb! “I measured my thumb from the first knuckle and it’s exactly two inches. So I just use that, and it works really well,” says Steven. Brilliant!

As you continue your journey to become a razor haircut expert, Marlo Beauty Supply has you covered with the best deals on razors and blades! And for more tips, videos, and a helpful razor cut Q&A, check out our detailed step-by-step article here.