How to Pick the Right Shears

Picking out your cutting shears can seem daunting, but breaking down the technical aspects will help you navigate which scissors to reach for with each client. Knowing the benefits of the materials, manufacturing process and sharpening maintenance can also ensure your tools will grow with you through the entirety of your styling career.
 

Shear Length

The most obvious spec (aside from buying right or left handed shears) will be the sizing. Longer shears are typically best for blunt cutting and establishing strong lines because of the amount of control. Shears with a shorter blade length (4.0-5.5”) are more efficient for advanced techniques like point cutting, notching or layering. Shears over 6” consist of more material, making them heavier than shorter shears by nature.

Dry vs. Wet Shears

Dry cutting can help with visualizing and polishing the finished result, while wet cutting can offer crisp, clean lines. Can you use wet cutting shears for a dry cut? The easy answer is yes.

The type of metal used for the blades will prevent corrosion when properly cared for, but cleaning them between haircuts will ensure their longevity.
 

Types of Metal

Japanese steel is a trusted metal to look for when purchasing shears. They are resistant to corrosion and keep their edge longer, meaning less time seeking out a sharpener. Carbon is a lighter material that can be sharpened to a razor-like edge, but is less resistant to corrosion or wear-and-tear.
 

Types of shear Blades

Beveled edge blades are the most traditional technology; however, as they require more force to achieve a clean line, they are best for a scissor-over-comb blend. Convex blades are more narrow and sharp, making them the immediate choice for detail-oriented styling. Semi-convex blades are a combination of the two, offering the most variety of cutting techniques. They are harder to manufacture, therefore higher in price.
 

The Jatai Switch Blade Shears offer removable blades for quick sharpening.
 

Cast or Forged

Once you decide which length, metal and blade feels most comfortable in your creative process, it’s beneficial to investigate whether they are cast or forged. Shears that are cast are made as one, meaning they are more sensitive to falls and harder to balance. Forged shears are welded together, so they offer more balance and can be fine-tuned.
 

Razors / Texturizing

Texturizing shears are mainly used to remove selective bulk and create movement. The fewer the teeth a texturizer has, the more weight it will remove. Razors are typically used to create a cut full of texture.
 

Marlo Beauty carries a variety of texturizing and thinning shears.
 

Shear Handle

Some shears will offer a swivel for a more ergonomic design, while others will provide customizable finger rings to minimize the strain on muscles and tendons. A tang will also provide your pinky finger a place to rest for control and comfort.
 

To customize your fit, some shears offer finger rings and/or a tang.
 

Check out our Pro2Pro article on ergonomic hair tools to learn more about which handle fits best in your wrist’s natural posture!